neotoma

This past Saturday, I was fortunate enough to attend a double program at my guild. The morning was taken up by Koji and Debbie Wada of Kasuri Dyeworks -- dealers in the finest Japanese textiles available.

	elaborate shibori kimono, basted This kimono is only basted into shape. It took 16 years to tie all the knots before this was dyed -- ever bit of white represents a knot. This piece is worth tens of thousands of dollars, even in its unfinished state. To make it a finished kimono, the fabric would be steamed to proper length, then lined and sewn
	Handmade brocade lining. This handmade brocade is the lining of a haori jacket. The elaborate fabric was a status marker, as men would take off their jackets went at tea houses, and thus the hostess would be able to judge their wealth/rank from the lining.
	Japanese dyeing stencil Used to apply a water-soluble resist, this stencil could be used to dye over 600 times
	Cotton and silk shibori fabrics Cotton and silk shibori bolts from Kasuri Dyeworks
	Katazome and yukata bolts Katazome are stencil-resist indigo dyed fabric, sometimes dyed on both sides. Yukata are cotton fabrics dyed or stenciled on both sides suitable for making yukata, lightweight summer kimonos
	Kasuri fabrics Bolts of kasuri -- Japanese weft ikats and double ikats
	Bolts of cotton shibori More bolts of cotton shibori
	extremely complicated shibori panel One end of an extremely complicated shibori panel. The entire length constitutes one fifth of a kimono, and about 6 years of work tying the resist-knots
	Other end of shibori panel The other end of an extremely complicated shibori panel. The entire length constitutes one fifth of a kimono, and about 6 years of work tying the resist-knots
	Tied but undyed shibori A rare panel of tied but not yet dyed cloth
	Pleated shibori Instead of square knots, this pieces was pleated and tied. Similar effects can be made with loom-controlled shibori.
	long repeat double ikat A kimono panel showing the long repeat -- approximately 39 inches in this piece
	Oshima -- thrice woven cloth The middle bolt on the top row is oshima -- thrice woven cloth. The warp and weft of this fabric is first both woven as warp in stiff mats, then carefully spot-dyed in the fabric, unraveled, and rewoven. All the patterning is in the dyeing. This particular bolt is worth more money than I'd see in two years.
	Partially untied shibori The usual way to untie a shibori bolt is to have two strong men stand on opposite street corners and give it a good hard yank. Since the ties are wrapped around the fabric, instead of going through the fabric, the ties normally pop off.
	Shibori bubble top A full sized shirt made with "white" shibori fabric. This fabric is very elastic from the shibori knots
	Shibori step by step. Clockwise from the bottom, this piece shows the steps to make shibori fabric. Plain fabric is pre-dyed with extra colors for details like flower, then stitched with the square resist knots, next dip-dyed in indigo, and last the resist knots are removed.
	Metal shibori tool Debbie and Koji Wada demonstrate a tool used to help for the square knots typical of shibori. This tool is only used when working with cotton; silks had to be hand-folded.
	Yukata Fabric Wall Hanging A yard of yukata fabric that I purchased for use as a wall hanging. This piece is far superior to the printed fabric in the yukata I own, but also much more expensive.