[livejournal.com profile] vimeslady asked what does Snape wear. Since I'm a fiber/fabric/costume geek in my secret identity, I put *way* too much effort into it and gave her a very long answer.

Snape wears a black cloak with a hood; we know it has a hood because he puts it up to hide his face when he threatens Quirrel in the first book. I'd guess it's a 3/4 circle cloak because I have one myself, and not only will the hood completely mask your face, but it is really swoopy. Also, if you gather the the edges into folds, you have 'sleeves' until you drop your arms down straight. Very useful, that.

A black robe (or a green one if he's attending a Quidditch game and Slytherin is playing) -- it's general purpose wear for Wizarding society, and Snape doesn't seem like the sort to wear Muggle fashion. He'd have woolen robes for winter, and worsted ones for autumn and spring -- that means they're all made out of wool, but worsted wool is rather cooler than woolen wool. He might have velvet (wool too!) for dress robes, and possibly linen robes for the summer holidays, but good linen is expensive, and it really depends on whether you think Snape cares enough to spend the money. The style could range from houpelande to monk's robe to something Elizabethean or even later.

A linen shirt as underwear. Three-quarter length sleeves with a slit neckband and a hem that ends almost at his knees. It's to protect his clothes from his skin more than his skin from the clothes -- wool can be itchy, but skin oil ruining the robes is the bigger concern, especially if he only has a few. Given that the students are only required to buy a few robes, it's unlikely that even adults have more than a few changes of clothes; garments and household linens used to be among the most expensive things an average person could own, and I suspect that the Wizarding World still holds to that to some extent. Also, his undershirt has to have sleeves that are not fastened at the wrist, because he shoved the sleeve of his robe up to show Fudge the Dark Mark in GoF, and did not stop to unbutton anything.

Braies as underwear -- loose linen underpants with a drawstring tie. They can be quite loose and baggy (early Medieval) or very similar in shape to modern briefs (late Renaissance). The linen is quite fine and crisp, but might not be bleached white; linen is a soft gray if it's unbleached, or more rarely golden; this has to do with how the linen is retted.

In winter, he probably wears woolen hose -- which tie to his braies -- for warmth. The hose are likely cut on the bais from fabric and fulled (delibterately felting wool fabric to shrink and fluff it) to better fit the contours of his legs.

He wears boots -- possibly dragonhide -- to protect his feet. Given that melting cauldrons and shoe-destroying brews are in the books, he probably has the stoutest, most wear-resitant boots he can afford, and goes through them fast. He might wear soft shoes outside of the classroom or at formal occasions, though *not* like Dumbledore -- who wears purple boots with high red heels!

At night, he wears a nightshirt -- long and gray. It's probably dew-retted linen, which would account for the color. I don't recall if he wore slippers in that scene in GoF, but it's pretty cold in a stone castle at night without them. He should have a dressing down, and might have a nightcap to round out his jammies.

Last of all, his accesories: gloves, scarves, belt, and so forth. He obviously needs gloves for winter, but I don't remember them being used in Potions, so they're not used to protect the hands from ingredients. I like the House scarves in the movies, but they're not in the books as far as I can remember. He'd have a belt to keep things (knives, tools, possibly a small notebook for detention lists) on his person; their robes apparently have pockets for their wands, but a holster on a belt makes more sense, frankly.

He may have a hat, as the students are required to have one as part of their uniform, and thus it's probably common in Wizarding society. It could be a floppy hat, one with tails (liripipe), or something taller and more imposing (I have one like this, without the feathers or shinys-- plain and black would be Snape's style).

Have I fabric and costume geeked enough for you yet?
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From: [identity profile] tekalynn.livejournal.com


Terrific! That helps me visualize him very fully.

From: [identity profile] atdelphi.livejournal.com


*bookmarks* I love you!

And hee - braies. I have a kink for braies.

From: [identity profile] zoepaleologa.livejournal.com


That's fantastic - wonderfully thought through (I've never thought it much beyond the robes) and canon, with a dash of real costume know-how.

Added to memories, as a useful check list and just to re-read for pleasure.

And you know about houpelandes and liripipes!

*fangirls you*


From: [identity profile] neotoma.livejournal.com


I'll try to do "What would McGonagall wear" soon as a companion piece. That will be interesting -- for one thing, brassieres are a 20th century invention.

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From: [identity profile] bramblerose-pf.livejournal.com

fascinating


Very educational. Putting this in my memories.
lotesse: (Default)

From: [personal profile] lotesse


How cool is it that you know all this stuff? So cool!

From: [identity profile] ellen-fremedon.livejournal.com


? Aren't dragonhide or similar gloves on Harry's list in PS/SS? I don't have the e-text at work, or I'd look it up.

From: [identity profile] neotoma.livejournal.com


I'm not sure. I'd have to check.

I'm don't recall Harry ever mentioning actually using them, though. Which is odd, but JKR does leave out a lot of detail unless it's a clue.

From: [identity profile] flutteringazure.livejournal.com


They are on the list. PS chapter 5 Diagon Alley, it's on page 76 in the Bloomsbury paperback/pocket.

3. One pair of protective gloves (dragon hide or similar)

The gloves are not on the list as a specific item for Potions though, they are part of the general uniform. They are probably also used during Herbology and Care of Magical Creatures.

From: [identity profile] propaganda-live.livejournal.com


There's also a scene in the book that describes students wearing their dragon skin gloves between classes because it was so cold in the corridors (CoS maybe... dunno, I'll have to look). Anyway the description makes it sound like it's something they wouldn't normally do, but did because of the abnormal cold. I would suspect their gloves would be used in potions, Care of Magical Creatures, and Herbology

From: [identity profile] starkittyn.livejournal.com


I was just going to say that. I do believe they are mentioned for potions.


From: [identity profile] starkittyn.livejournal.com


This was very interesting. I think I disagree with you but that's more convenience of my brain than anything I actually know. I do believe he has a dressing gown, belt, scarves, gloves, boots as you describe them but since we know Harry and Ron wear socks (I'm pretty sure this is canon) then I would think Snape would too. Surely they'd be more comfortable.

I'm with on the braies or at least probably loose and comfortable underwear, no tighty whities!

I also agree about the linen and wool too. I find it impossible to believe that a man who spends so much of his time in a dungeon in a castle in the wilds of Scotland wouldnt need to keep warm!

Blah, this was really wonderful and I'll be saving it. :)


From: [identity profile] tesseract-5.livejournal.com


here via your post in copperbadge's lj. I tend to think of wizard wear as a mix of medaevial/Renaissance wear and 19th century and the films costume designer seems to as well (Dumbldore's clothing compared to Snape's)

Definitely agree with the 3/4 cloak, and the braies for undies and sleep wear (thinking of Thewlis as Paul Verlain in Total Eclipse), can give you a screen cap if you like. As for shirts, think Alan Rickman in Mesmer, minus the 18th century ruffles around the cuffs.

*fun post! not at all too much fabric and pattern geeking :) I did a bunch of research on this for making my Eowyn dress and a men's long vest ala Faramir over at Cat's LotR costuming page (http://www.alleycatscratch.com/lotr/)

From: [identity profile] gwendolyngrace.livejournal.com

LotR costumes


Yeah, I had incredible fun at the Boston exhibit pressing my nose to the glass to check seams and scrutinize fabric and... sigh.

I don't know how anybody could get through that exhibit in an hour (the suggested viewing time). I was there for 3 1/2 hours and probably could have gone around again but for the sensory overload.

From: [identity profile] gwendolyngrace.livejournal.com

not too Medieval....


See, I'm a costume geek, sorta, too, but the buttons really didn't bother me. I tend to think "medieval" for wizards' garb, but some crossover with Muggle styling is probably inevitable. Even so, the first time I saw stills of Alan Rickman's costumes, I thought "Black Prince!" as an era. The later stuff makes it almost more Flemish Ren.

The buttons don't bother me, because I can visualise him using those buttons like a general puts on armour: each button is a little self-defence against the world.

I agree that there's conflicting information in the books (see my comment in Sam's journal) - there are references to both over-the-head, tunic/cassock-style robes and yet references to more modern-influenced clothing. I think the Victorian influence adds a nice touch of modernity without degrading to jeans and a t-shirt (articles I believe do not exist in Snape's world).

And much as I love a man in braies and hose (ye gods, yeah baby), and a liripipe hood, those are just...not Snape's style, IMO. The liripipe is too flamboyant, and the braies are a bit *too* old-fashioned. Much as it's painful to visualise it, I really do think those are y-fronts in his worst memory. Nowadays I think he probably succumbs to the convenience of modern boxers.

Interestingly, while he *must* have slippers and probably a dressing gown, they are notably absent from Harry's description - just the nightshirt in "The Egg and the Eye." I think it's yet another of JKR's indications that Snape is naaasty.

I agree with your fabric choices, sticking to natural fibres, but I would add raw silk, and I doubt that his undertunic is a 3/4 sleeve - it probably tucks up just under the cuff, so as not to get rings, but there's nothing more annoying than a too-short chemise sleeve getting bunched up around the elbow and being utterly unable to pull it down.

Lupin is the only wizard so far who's mentioned wearing a belt (he tucks his wand into it in the shrieking shack). I find that extraordinary, especially if they're all running around in full-length cassocks. So yes, either there are more people wearing belts and we just don't hear about them, or there are lots of robe styles that are meant to open to allow walking (think Tudor or Regency Watoo-back overcoat), or this is another one of those "areas that JKR really never thought through very well" or all three.

From: [identity profile] neotoma.livejournal.com

Re: not too Medieval....


The kids' school robes are definitely over-the-head, as Harry actually describes pulling them on and off that way.

Buttons? Well, to point I can see Snape going for buttons as part of a 'clothes as armor' thinking, especially if there is a charm to get them closed easily. I can even see him tying down or button down his sleeves for mucky potions making, as loose swoopy sleeves are a mess waiting to happen, but there is no book-based evidence for it.

As to underwear -- I'd go as far as Victorian/Edwardian, but I think anything with elastic is definitely out for a Pureblood who isn't Muggle-friendly like the Weasleys. I also think zippers are unlikely for much the same reason -- too modern. I'm still going with the hose for winter wear, as I really really doubt book!canon Snape has ever worn trousers.

I'm not so sure about raw silk. Silk is expensive, especially in the quantities needed to make robes, and finicky to take care of; wool is just as warm, and not quite as tempermental or expensive. Especially for someone like Snape, who I always think is hard on his clothes. Dumbledore, on the other hand, wears the most outrageous and extravagant styles, and I can see him in silks as well as wool velvets.

Snape's undershirt could really be any length sleeves, but it simply can't be fastened at the wrist in any fashion, as he really does shove up his sleeve to show Fudge the Dark Mark, and he couldn't do that if he had to tear at a cuff.

JKR may mean to convery Snape's 'nastiness' with his lack of dressing gown and slippers, but I got that Snape had been woken out of a sound sleep and was too busy/pissed to bother. He deos tend towards uncouthness even while he's being very formal, which is an interesting combo.

A liripipe hood might be too flamboyant for Snape as a teacher, but he's still a relatively young man, so don't put him in fuddy-duddy garments just yet. I prefer him in a flat cap or a tall hat, though I have seen people write him wearing a tasseled cap and finding that believable.

Good point about Remus wearing a belt. They must have belts, because robes sort of needed them. JKR is probably just leaving out the 'extraneous' details (I wish she'd leave out the extraneous adverbs) or just not caring. Her world-building is spotty.

Re: not too Medieval....

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Re: not too Medieval....

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Re: not too Medieval....

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Regarding the buttons...

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From: [identity profile] sine-que-non767.livejournal.com


I love this post! *memories* Really interesting.

Also, though: in Snape's worst Pensieve memory in OotP, James et al. want to strip him of his 'pants' - underpants. So I think some of the specifically Medieval items wouldn't be an everyday occurance, perhaps. I can see the Wizarding World having random short-lived fashions, and also having a lot of room for what Muggles would see as quirkiness - cf. Dumbledore's more extravagant get-ups as seen through Harry's eyes. Overall, the Wizarding World comes over as quite formal, particularly adults, but the adults seem to modernise according to their generation - Snape would wear somewhat updated versions of Dumbledore's clothing. I still think they have a general outfit, robes being an obvious component in it, but logically are affected by changes in fashion.

From: [identity profile] jollityfarm.livejournal.com

via daily_snitch


I agree with you on a lot of this, but the small amount of canon we have on his underwear suggests something more modern, and not perfectly medieval. The magical world in general seems to be a curious conflict of the ancient and the modern. Although I suppose one might argue that poor Severus switched to the bigger pants after being caught in his lucky exam pants in the summer of '76, but there is a scene in PS that has him hitching his robes over his knees, that reveals bare legs. I think this may be a mistake on Rowling's part, mind (that scene takes place in winter up in Scotland in the snow - would you go out in bare legs in that weather?). I simply don't think Rowling really pays as much attention to the minute details or the intimate period dating of the particular costumes as all that.

Anyway, whatever he wears, my guess is that it's too big. He strikes me as a "clothes too big" kind of guy.

From: [identity profile] laurelwood.livejournal.com


This was the most entertaining, informative descriptions of wizarding clothing I've ever read. I And oddly, it makes me all the more fond of Snape to be able to visualize so clearly what's in his wardrobe.

Thanks so much for putting this together! I love to learn about fabrics and clothing styles, and giving them a wizarding perspective only makes it all the more fascinating.

From: [identity profile] seelechen.livejournal.com


This is definitely the most interesting speculation on Snape's wardrobe I've read. The visuals help immensely, too.

From: [identity profile] sinick.livejournal.com


Marvellous research! A definite Memory here.

From: [identity profile] snapesforte.livejournal.com


This is what Snape wears (some pictures provided):

http://www.designerpotions.com/ss/ss_billowingblack.html

This is pretty good, I am going to add it to my memories.

From: [identity profile] leni-jess.livejournal.com


This is most helpful, along with [livejournal.com profile] furiosity's recent post on the subject of wizarding clothing. Your essay is now sitting on my hard drive, along with a selection of the illustrations you linked to, for future reference.

I like to be fairly canonical about no-trousers!Snape, and so-not-modern-underwear!Snape, too, but I see see I need to check out robes further. In my stories I've been assuming button-up-the-front, and Muggle-breds like Harry tend to leave them open, while 'proper' wizards tend to have magical means of undoing the buttons quickly.

I'd really like to see your Minerva costume post, too. (BTW, my witches don't wear bras - not even Hermione - because there are charms to hold up and protect breasts; one of the first things a witch would think of for comfort and convenience, I believe.)

From: [identity profile] neotoma.livejournal.com


BTW, my witches don't wear bras - not even Hermione - because there are charms to hold up and protect breasts; one of the first things a witch would think of for comfort and convenience, I believe.

I don't know if they'd go that far when all a woman needs for support is properly made and fitted clothing. For late Medieval/early Renaisance, you get support from a bodice. Witches may go for corsets, and possibly ones that adjust themselves, which would be very nice.

From: [identity profile] iibnf.livejournal.com


And he doesn't wear pants! Two instances in the books make 'no pants Snape' canon. I think the movie tainted our minds with his pants and spats.

Knobby knees to the wind!

From: [identity profile] neotoma.livejournal.com


But he'd look all Lorenzo di Medici (http://www.mrdowling.com/704medici.jpg) in it!

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Pointy hats

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